It must be the dance with bubbles which inspires a love affair with sparkling wine. Perhaps it's the romantic story of a blind monk discovering it in a cool dark cellar? It could be the amorous name ‘champagne' or perhaps it's the elite status it holds in celebrations. Whatever the reason, we all love a bubbly wine during the holidays.
It is true that only sparkling wine made by traditional methods in the Champagne region of France can legally carry the champagne name. And it is true while champagne is a sparkling wine, not all sparkling wine is champagne.
Confusing? It has everything to do with where and how it's made. In Niagara, there are two classifications of sparkling wine to clarify the differences. When a sparkling wine is made in the classic method, or traditional method, or the true champagne method, it starts with a blend, or cuvee of juice from premium crushed grapes. Then it is twice fermented, once in tank and second fermentation takes place in the bottle. The bottles of sparkling wine are then riddled, disgorged, topped up, rebottled and aged.
When a sparkling wine is made in the modern method, or cuvee close, or charmat method, it could be a single grape variety or blelnd, it is fermented once, usually in a stainless steel tank with the gentle introduction of bubbles.
Two extraordinary wines of great quality yet the subject of unending debate among winemakers. For consumers, our choices are much more entertaining and delicious.
Brian Schmidt, winemaker of Vineland Estates Brut ($22.95) and Riesling Cuvee Clos ($22.95) sparkling wines, has a reputation as a producer of Ontario's best Riesling table wines. A combination of amazing soils and incredible talent, Schmidt also producs a sparkling riesling.
Schmidt explains adding bubbles to a Riesling is like “putting a magnifying glass over the wine”. Not a typical sparkling wine grape, riesling adds an abundance of character which the bubbles tend to enhance and actually amplify.
The first Riesling Cuvee Clos was produced in 1998 in preparation of the millennium. The uber-delicious wine offers fine bubbles which mingle within an essence of warm bread layered with subtle riesling characteristics of dry stone, ripe apple, rose petal and a hint of lime. It's a brilliantly refreshing sparkler with flavours that dance along the tongue. It's one of those rare wines where the descriptor ‘yum' fits perfectly.
Vineland Estate's Riesling Cuvee Clos is a vintage sparkling wine and produced only when conditions support it – pity. After 1998 the wine was produced in 2008. Unlike traditional sparkling wine grapes which are harvested just before full ripeness so the grapes hold plenty of tart acidity, Vineland fully ripens their riesling grapes for a combination of sweet and tartness on the palate. The grapes are lightly crushed and the juice is chilled to preserve its full frutiness. The stainless steel fermentation process is long and cool, stopped only when the resulting wine is fully dry. The secondary fermentation is also done in stainless steel tanks, a pressurized method called Charmat. The resulting bubbles are like the long, sultry legs of a beautiful woman - soft and seductive.
With much sparkling success under his belt, Schmidt created a second sparkling called Brut. Brut is a blend of pinot munier and pinto blanc. The flavours of these two grapes transform into a more complex wine of wet beach stone, stone fruit and warm spices spread over a creamy texture that could be likened to creamy white caps on a warm beach. Bright grapefruit flavours play on the back palate and finish with a kiss of minerality and fleeting earthiness – sheer lusciousness.
“Our sparkling wine program is a wonderful effervescent expression of Vineland itself,” explains Schmidt.
Not only for the holidays, but especially for the holidays, sparkling wines hold an unexplainable mystery and excitement which often translates into romance. Perhaps it's inspired by some of the historical myths such as the original champagne coupe that was molded to the breast of Marie Antoinette. Drinking from this was considered the height of decadence and sensual pleasure. Unfortunately, the wide surface allowed the champagne to lose its bubbles too quickly and it wasn't long before the flute was designed for sparkling wine.
The tall, slender flute enhances the flow of bubbles up through the glass and concentrates the aromas of the wine. A crystal glass is best because the surface is very rough and will actually create more bubbles. If you're thinking of freezing those champagne glasses for drama, think again; a frozen flute will dull the flavours of a sparkling wine.
For the best way to serve a bottle of sparkling wine, refrigerate it for approximately 3-4 hours or sit it in an ice bucket that is filled with half ice and half cold water for about 30 minutes. Either method will bring the wine to between 43F and 48F, the perfect temperature for all to enjoy.
Sparkling wine and holiday entertaining go hand in hand. Serve sparkling wine with hors d'oeuvres before a meal and ask your guests to bring their bubbly into the dining room where a warm cream soup awaits. They'll love the way the bubbles play on the palate with the contrasting creamy soup.
Schmidt's favourite way of serving sparkling wine for the holidays is with a splash of cranberry juice. “An ounce is more than enough for flavour and a beautiful colour”, he says. Of course, a few frozen whole cranberries floating on the top of the wine simply finish the festive touch.
Kir Royale is a famous champagne cocktail perfect for any holiday occasion. Make it a true Niagara specialty by adding half an ounce of Southbrook Cassis to chilled Vineland Estate Riesling sparkling wine. Stir gently and add a frozen cranberry or two to the glass. The colours are not only beautiful, but perfectly festive.
For a Canadian sparkling cocktail, mix a bit of icewine into a glass of chilled sparkling wine. Lawrence Buhler, winemaker at Peller Estates Winery already does this for you. The Peller Estates Signature Series Ice Cuvee ($31.75) is an award-winning sparkling wine made with a classic blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes produced in the traditional method. After the second bottle fermentation, the wine is disgorged, topped up with icewine and rebottled. This addition of decadent icewine adds an elegant play of fresh peach and an ever-so-elusive hint of creamed honey in between the bubbles. The bubbles are plentiful tickling your upper lip when you sip.
There are only a handful of wineries in Niagara which produce delicious sparkling wines and they're all offering a full range of flavour profiles. Champagne is still the number one decadent and romantic drink in the world and Niagara is producing sparkling wines which rival the best, but at a fraction of the price. A third of the cost of good French champagnes, it's an affordable indulgence not only for the holidays, but for the rest of the year. Get out there and try them all before you decide on the best sparkling wine to celebrate your holidays. Happy holidays and the very best for a healthy, safe and prosperous 2012!

Lynn Ogryzlo is food and wine writer for Niagara this Week newspaper, Niagara Life Magazine, award winning author of Niagara Cooks, a farm to table cookbook. You can reach Lynn for questions or comments at ogryzlo@sympatico.ca

Niagara Sparkling Wine
Hillebrand Trius Brut, $24.75
Trius Brut Rose, $29.95
13th Street Winery Cuvée 13 Rose, $24.95
13th Street Winery Premier Cuvée $29.95
Peller Estate Ice Cuvee, $31.75
Peller Estate Ice Cuvee Rose, $35.00
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut, $29.95
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rose Brut, $29.95
Pillitteri Estate Winery Due $23.00
Cave Spring Cellars Blanc de Blancs, $29.95
Cave Spring Cellars Dolomite Brut, $24.95
Vineland Estate Winery Riesling Cuvée Clos, $22.95
Vineland Estates Brut, $22.95
Chateau des Charmes 2008 Rose, $28.95
Chateau des Charmes Brut, $22.95